If you have ever experienced the “goodness” that is Italian espresso, you know how difficult it is to find outside of Italy. Something weird seems to happen to espresso when you cross Italy’s boarders and enter into another country. One step into France or Switzerland and “POOF” the ability to make a truly good espresso disappears like a newly formed Italian government (sorry, I couldn’t help myself.)

I have had numerous discussions about this with my Zio G who makes frequent trips to the US from Calabria and he’s come up with various explanations.

1. “It might be the same brand but the caffe’ is different here.” which might be true but when he’s the one bringing the caffe’ from Calabria the theory sort of dies.
2. “It’s the water.” Logical next step, if it’s not the caffe’ it’s the other ingredient, right? Maybe but I don’t think so. I concede that it may make a slight difference but not enough to change the espresso.
3. “It’s the air.” the air? what do you mean? The air in Italy makes the coffee taste better? Maybe breathing the air enhances the experience but I have a hard time believing that the air can make the espresso taste better. It also doesn’t explain why an espresso tastes different one step across the Italian border…. I’m certain that “Italian air” doesn’t recognize borders.
4. “It’s the barista.” Now this one has some merit. Is there a course that every barista in Italy takes? A secret society of sorts? Maybe there’s a hand-shake and weekly meetings where they wear funny hats and talk about making espresso. Maybe they even vote on new types of caffe’…. macchiato semi-freddo! Cappuccino-Vino! all in favor?

I think the barista is truly a factor, hand-shake or not. My brother-in-law who came to the States when he was 16 from outside of Napoli has a pasticceria/bar here in Massachusetts and he can make a darn good espresso… still not as good as he can make it in Italy, but don’t tell him I said that.

A few helpful hints for American Baristas:

• Please don’t give me 5 espressos in one cup…. I know you want to give me my money’s worth but the more water you filter through that 1 shot of espresso the less it tastes like an espresso. It’s like using 1 tea bag for 5 cups of tea.
• When I ask for a “short” espresso, why can’t the waiter understand me? I even show you with my fingers how much espresso I want in my tazza…. but you still fill it to the top.

Will someone PLEASE bring me a good espresso!

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